Sometimes a trip becomes more than just a holiday – it becomes a story you’ll tell for years.
A few weeks ago, Selahattin and Clair from Property Wizard Turkey travelled from Fethiye to Kars to experience the famous Touristic Eastern Express Train, widely regarded as one of the most scenic train journeys in Turkey. From snow-covered mountains and historic cities to frozen lakes and ancient ruins, this five-day winter adventure showed us a completely different side of the country.
Organised by Koral Travel, the trip combines flights, guided tours and the iconic overnight train journey across eastern Türkiye.
For anyone looking for a truly unique travel experience, this journey should definitely be on your bucket list.
Flying from İzmir to Kars felt like travelling to another world. As we landed, the airport was surrounded by a thick blanket of snow stretching across the landscape.
Our first stop was Sarıkamış, a mountain region famous for its ski resort and historical significance. We visited the Sarıkamış Martyrs’ Memorial, where we learned about the tragic events of the Battle of Sarikamish during World War I. It is estimated that approximately 25,000 Ottoman soldiers froze to death during the operation. Standing at the memorial surrounded by deep snow made the history feel even more powerful.
Later we travelled to Sarıkamış Ski Resort, located within beautiful pine forests. Riding the chairlift to the top, we couldn’t help but feel like we were somewhere in the French or Swiss Alps rather than eastern Turkey. The panoramic winter views were breathtaking.
When we arrived at our hotel in Kars, we received one of the warmest welcomes imaginable. Musicians greeted us at the entrance while we were offered Turkish delight and hot çay, a perfect introduction to the hospitality of the region.
That evening we tried one of the most famous local dishes — Kars goose — at one of the oldest restaurants in the city, which was opened by a local lady. It’s a traditional delicacy and a must-try when visiting the region.
Our second day involved travelling close to the Armenian border to visit the incredible Ani Ruins. Known as the “City of 1001 Churches,” Ani was once one of the most important cities in the region, rivaling Constantinople and Baghdad as a centre of trade and culture. Walking through the snow-covered ruins felt magical. Ancient cathedrals, churches and city walls rise dramatically from the landscape, creating one of the most atmospheric historical sites in Turkey.
Later we visited Lake Çıldır, which freezes solid during the winter months. Local fishermen cut holes in the thick ice to catch carp and we enjoyed a delicious lunch of fresh lake carp at a lakeside restaurant. Horse-drawn sleigh rides across the frozen lake are also popular. While we felt they were a little expensive for the short ride, we still enjoyed watching from the sidelines and taking in the beautiful winter scenery.
That evening our tour group joined the famous Kars Night celebration. Local musicians played the saz (a traditional Turkish string instrument), accompanied by singing, comedy and storytelling. Dancers performed energetic Caucasian and traditional folk dances, creating a fantastic atmosphere. The evening was filled with music, laughter, singing and dancing – a wonderful way to experience the culture and traditions of the region.
On our final day in Kars before boarding the train, we spent time exploring the city itself. The architecture in Kars is fascinating, influenced by Russian and Baltic styles from the period of Russian occupation in the late 19th century.
We climbed up to Kars Castle, which turned into quite an adventure as the pathway was covered in snow and ice.
We couldn’t leave Kars without tasting the local cheese, especially to Kars eski kaşar, a famous gourmet hard yellow cheese produced from cows raised on the highlands of the region. The cheese is aged for at least six months and sometimes up to two years, giving it a rich and distinctive flavour. We sampled several different cheeses and, of course, bought some to take home as gifts for friends.
The weather during our visit was cold but beautiful. Locals told us that just two weeks earlier temperatures had dropped to –25°C, the coldest winter the region had experienced in nearly 15 years.
The highlight of the journey was boarding the legendary Touristic Eastern Express. We were about to begin the 32-hour, 1,310 km train journey from Kars to Ankara, one of the most iconic rail routes in Turkey.
Each sleeper compartment includes two bunk beds, a table, a small fridge, storage space, and a compact sink. The beds were surprisingly comfortable (as long as you’re not too tall!), and the carriage facilities, including the toilets, were kept impressively clean throughout the journey.
The first night on the train was lively, with many passengers celebrating the experience with music, dancing and singing. It has even become a tradition for travellers to decorate their compartments with fairy lights, creating a festive atmosphere along the carriages.
Not much sleep was had on the first night — partly because of the celebrations, but also because the train descends through winding mountain tracks. At times it genuinely felt like being on a runaway train as it navigated the dramatic terrain!
One of the most unique features of the journey is the extended stops at fascinating destinations along the route.
Our favourite stop was İliç, where we explored Karanlık Canyon (Dark Canyon) — a spectacular 25 km long and 1,000 metre deep gorge carved into the mountains of eastern Turkey. We were particularly impressed by Taş Yolu (The Stone Road). This dramatic route was carved over decades by local villagers and features narrow tunnels and sheer drops along the canyon walls. It is often described as one of the most dangerous yet scenic roads in the world. The winding road eventually leads to the historic mountain town of Kemaliye, where we spent time exploring the charming streets and traditional houses on foot.
Back on the train, our guide advised that the next stretch of the journey would be the most scenic of the entire route, recommending we move to the restaurant carriage for the best views. Taking his advice, we ordered çay and sat back, mesmerised by the spectacular winter landscapes passing by the windows — particularly the dramatic sections running alongside the Euphrates River, known locally as the Fırat.
Our second stop of the day was Divriği, a charming town set on the southern banks of the river. Here we visited the extraordinary Divriği Great Mosque and Hospital. This remarkable complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most striking examples of Seljuk architecture in Turkey. Its intricate stone carvings and monumental entrance portals make it a truly formidable piece of architecture — and probably the most beautiful and unique mosque we have seen in Turkey.
Later in the evening, once darkness had fallen, we arrived in the city of Sivas.
We were immediately impressed by the clean and modern city centre, which blends contemporary life with an impressive historical heritage. During our visit we also explored the Sivas Atatürk and Congress Museum, a building of great historical importance. It was here that Mustafa Kemal Atatürk and his colleagues organised key meetings that helped launch the Turkish War of Independence.
After our second night on the train we arrived in Ankara at 9.30am, ready to start our coach journey back to Fethiye.
The whole trip was incredibly well organised and we met a fantastic group of people along the way — so much so that everyone is already talking about organising a reunion picnic!
From frozen lakes and ancient cities to one of the world’s most scenic train journeys, the Touristic Eastern Express to Kars is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
If you enjoy discovering new parts of Turkey, this is definitely a journey worth adding to your travel list.
For more information about the tour, please visit www.koraltravel.com.
Living in Turkey gives you easy access to incredible travel experiences like this. If you’re considering relocating to the region, explore our property listings in Fethiye and the surrounding areas.
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